La Mer... Pondicherry

Living in Bangalore for the past 8 years, Pondicherry had long been on our wishlist. Also known as the French Riviera of the East, we had heard countless descriptions of this tranquil town, a living testament to India's colonial past. Finally the long awaited opportunity came our way; and we found ourselves on a cab from Chennai, zooming along the East Coast Road (ECR) and foregoing the patience to even wait for a bus!

 There are different activities that one can plan in Pondy, but the basic thread that binds them together is that people come here to find peace. The general attitude of the people here, especially in the French quarters (a bit offensively named as 'White Town') is calm and laid back, and this spills over even to the visitors. There are three primary activities that are commonly pursued in Pondicherry - the natural (involving the bay side), the spiritual (involving the activities of the Aurobindo Ashram and Auroville), and the historical (savouring a slice of Pondicherry's French heritage through architectural, cultural and gastronomic delights). I had covered the second aspect and some bits of the third in a family trip many years back. This time's agenda consisted of two days in which we planned to unhurriedly explore Pondicherry on foot, explore its colonial heritage, the much famed food scene, and relax by the waves.

Pondicherry is a town which is easily explored at your own pace by foot or on cycle, owing to its small size (One needs to be careful however if heading out to the Tamil quarters and more inland parts of the town. Like other parts of Tamil Nadu, the Annas [big brothers] drive at breakneck speed and with no regard for lane discipline, braking only at the last instant!). We wanted to do the heritage walk hosted by INTACH, an organization involved in the renovation and maintenance of Pondicherry's old buildings and streets. However, as the schedules did not match, we undertook the 'walk' on our own, assisted by GPS technology. So we set about exploring the romantic Rue(s) and the streets criss-crossing them, marvelling at the beautifully renovated and maintained colonial homes in soothing pastel shades; with their gardens, pillars, hanging balconies, large bay windows and carved grills. There are streets in Pondicherry where one feels either being stuck in a time warp or being transported to a town in the real French Riviera. It is a true delight for history-buffs and architecture lovers, and a paradise for photography. Some of the renovated old Tamil homes are also a visual treat, transporting one back in time.  

We stopped only to watch the rolling raves of the Bay of Bengal break against the rocky shoreeline, spending hours on the Promenade, and letting the moist and salty sea air soothe our stresses away. It can be a little disappointing to some that the main beach in Pondicherry, lined by the Promenade and Beach Road is a rocky shoreline making the water unaccessible. For the sandy beaches, one has to venture some distance out of town. But we were content sitting on the flattened rocks of the promenade, with no regard for time, soaking in the sight and sound of the relentless waves and watching the changing faces of the sea. 

July-August being the peak French holiday season, in spite of planning the trip with over 2 weeks in hand, we could not find lodging in any of the heritage homes which serve as homestays. I had been looking forward so much to living in one of these romantic colonial mansions that I was a bit disheartened. Fortunately, what we had picked as an alternative turned out to be just perfect, though in a completely different manner. Lotus Bay View Hotel, located on Rue Bazar Saint Laurent Street is perfectly suited for the traveller looking for a nice place to stay at a prime location, and on a budget. It's not a place with fancy frills but it is a newly renovated, clean and pleasing building with simply but nicely furnished rooms, some of which offer a view of the sea (not a frontal view, but still a good view and very smartly accentuated by surround mirrors in the spacious balcony). The huge window leading out onto the balcony and the option of watching the sea from the bedside, through the mirrors was immediately endearing. The TV was a bonus for us but the air conditioning was a life saver. But best of all was the location: not just primely located off the Beach Road and with a nice view of the sea and the Promenade; it put us within easy walking of everything that we wanted to do in Pondy. Restaurants, Cafes, Heritage and Historical spots... you name it and start walking!! 

We had planned Pondicherry as an important gastronomic adventure as well. And we were not let down. Two days just flew by in a jiffy as we hopped from one place to another gorging on seafood specials, french oven treats, pizza, steaks, salads and meat in the forms ranging from steaks to chops to dried ham...and so much more. A true Foodie's delight! I certainly recommend Baker Street for a lovely French boulangerie experience and Cafe Xtasi for the most mind-boggling range of fresh wood fired pizzas. For the budget foodie, La Maree located within Hotel du Parc is a hidden gem. Of course one wouldn't miss Le Cafe located on the Promenade; we found it to be great place to spend some time over coffee and sandwiches/ snacks. Seagulls Restaurant at the far southern end of beach provides one of the best views of the coves and pier and could be the best place to enjoy a drink in Pondy, but the management of the place is another story. Do not miss the amazingly delightful and fresh gelatos from Gelateria Montecatini Terme (GMT), located on the Beach Road. There are many other interesting places as well where one could try out Tamil or Creole style food, and even fusion cuisines inspired by these and the French culture. Two days was too less for a complete culinary sojourn!

We skipped going to Auroville but it would be a nice place to include on a Pondy visit (from my previous experience). Even if not, one should definitely visit the very peaceful Aurobindo Ashram in Pondicherry and also their associated art and handicraft workshops. Notre Dame de Anges Church, facing the sea is a must visit for it beautifully painted interiors and stained glass, the construction being similar to the original Notre Dame cathedral in Paris. 

Notre Dame de Anges

The Pondicherry Museum and adjoining Romain Rolland Library are also quite nice for a quick visit. There are many art and culture activities organized by the Ashram and by Allinace Francais, so even if one gets bored of wandering around on the picturesquely clean and wide streets, there is always something for everybody. One just needs to disconnect a bit, and let time take its own course. And then there is always the call of the waves....